Why is it that men seize on massive firepower to do tasks that more moderate temperatures can do just as well? Is it the need for speed, or just a love of gadgetry?
Example du jour: Julian bought an item called a Searzall. This is a flame diffuser that attaches to a home propane blowtorch. According to the videos, one can sear steaks and fish, roast peppers, and caramelize crème brûlée. He had to go to the hardware store to get a blowtorch and propane tanks so he could try it out.
I have serious concerns about the use of powerful blowtorches in the kitchen, and ours in particular. It’s a glorified galley with way too much wood. It’s one thing to use one of these suckers in a commercial kitchen, quite another in a condo. In addition, I did a week’s rotation in the Parkland Memorial Hospital Burn Unit many years ago. One doesn’t leave that setting without a deep respect for fire and what it can do to the human body.
Julian assembled the blowtorch-Searzall. The instructions called for breaking in the apparatus by running it for exactly two minutes to oxidize the palladium diffuser screens. I made him do it in the driveway well away from our wood-frame abode. (Our neighbors were no doubt relieved.)
The first test of the Searzall followed shortly thereafter. I needed to roast and peel some Hatch chiles. Julian set a chile on a baking rack over a cookie sheet on the kitchen counter and turned on the burn. It was slow going. After several minutes of blasting when only a few charred skin bubbles on the chile had appeared, I asked, “Should I start the gas grill?” He nodded.
The Searzall may be fine for crème brûlée or other small tasks that don’t take much time, but I wouldn’t trust it to do bulk items like a mess of chiles or several steaks that had been cooked in the sous vide.
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