Hood River, Oregon is known for two things: It’s the windsurfing capital of the world, and it serves as a dividing line between lush forest and desert ecosystems along the southern bank of the Columbia River. Tourism plays a big role in the local economy, between windsurfers, mountain bikers, and backpackers. It is also the home to several wineries and microbreweries.
On our way to the Hood River July 4 fireworks, we learned another interesting fact: Hood River is the headquarters for Tofurky, the soy-based meat substitute. Julian was horrified. It became a running joke throughout the trip. He speculated that instead of the buffalo meat loaf served at Mount Rainier, the Timberline Lodge at Mount Hood served Tofurbalo (tofu buffalo). It did not, at least in the Ram’s Head Restaurant. He also warned me about hitting a wild Tofurbalo on the way to Mount Hood: “Leaves a nasty white mess on your car’s grill.” By the way, Hood River’s July 4 fireworks show was spectacular. It was probably the best show we’d seen. Not only was it 25 minutes long and featured great pyrotechnics, but we had a ringside seat for the show.
I thought that the chop suey genre of “Chinese-American restaurants” had gone the way of the dodo bird in the Northwest. I was wrong. Hood River has one that’s alive and well. The sweet and sour pork was a pile of batter-fried pork hunks in a dark sauce, with more sauce on the side. (At least the sauce was not violently hot pink.) Even though the pile was a “children/seniors” portion, I could barely make a dent in it. Julian’s spare ribs were drowned in a similar sauce.
One highlight of the trip was the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and Museum. It had interesting exhibits on the Lewis and Clark expedition, the Oregon Trail migration, indigenous tribes and their lost way of life. The Center also has a raptor exhibit of birds that have been rehabilitated, but could not be released into the wild. The birds featured in the Q&A session we attended were an American kestrel and a red-tailed hawk.
We had two breakfasts at the Columbia Gorge Hotel. Before we left for Portland, we had breakfast at a place called Brøder Ost (Swedish for Bread and Cheese). The restaurant was next to the Hood River Hotel, which had a distinctively younger, hipster vibe to it than where we stayed. I had aebelskiver (Danish pancakes), while Julian had lefse (Norwegian potato flatbread) with salad and egg toppings. The former are made in a special pan and turned with chopsticks or a spoon to get evenly cooked. Mine were served with lingonberry jam (to right of photo) and lemon curd (hidden).
Aebelskiver in background, lefse in foreground.
We recommend Hood River as a jumping off point for sightseeing and wine tasting in the Columbia River Gorge. The towns on the Washington side are pretty small, and The Dalles is a bit farther east. Hotel reservations are strongly recommended in the summer months.
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