Five Things Americans Can Teach the French

In the last post I listed five things Americans can learn from the French. This post lists five things Americans can teach the French.

Integrate your immigrants into society. These people have much to offer an aging workforce. Shuffling them into ugly suburbs called banlieues with little opportunity is counterproductive, given the violence that’s occurred in the last two years. America has had its own anti-immigrant demagoguery, but our better instincts have prevailed – so far.

Put reflective fog lines on the sides of roads, especially in rural areas. Some of the roads in the Gorges du Verdon area had no shoulders, just a sheer drop to the valley below.

Quit smoking. The percentage of persons over 15 years old who smoke in France is 27.6%, whereas it’s 17.2% in the US. (Stats courtesy of the World Health Organization) Smoking is now prohibited inside French restaurants, which means that sidewalk cafés are clogged with smokers.

Lose the crappy iced tea. This was my biggest rant from last year, and remains so.img_1979

Have fresh milk in the grocery stores. It was a surprise last year to find that all of the milk available in markets was shelf-stable. And this in a country famous for its other dairy products.

 

 

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Five Things the French Can Teach Americans

Although I’m All-American, I have a soft spot for France. There are many things that it does well, just as there are many things America does well. Here are five things that we Yanks can learn from our French counterparts:

Les plaîsirs de la table (the pleasures of the table). The French do not wolf down their meals; rather, they savor each course.  They don’t get itchy if the main course doesn’t arrive within five minutes of ordering it. We can all learn to slow down.

Eat sans gluttony. I wrote about this last year, the concept of “assez” (enough).

Drive less. Given the dearth of parking spaces on the Riviera and in French cities, this is a no-brainer. We left the Purple People-Eater in a free parking spot and walked or took the bus/train when we were in Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Invest in high-quality infrastructure. The Millau Viaduct, which we drove over last year, is a masterpiece of engineering, the 21st century equivalent of the Golden Gate Bridge. Americans used to do roads and bridges right. These days, road repair goes to the low bidder. The phrase “you get what you pay for” often applies to the results. If the same pothole has to be fixed year after year, the Highway Department needs to get a clue.

Value the old. Some of the buildings we’ve seen on our trips to France are hundreds of years old. Some retrofitting has to occur to bring them up to current code and modern conveniences, but it’s done. Meanwhile, the first option in the US when confronted with an old building is tear it down. How many architectural treasures have been destroyed as a result?

In the next post, I’ll turn the tables.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2016/09/25/five-things-the-french-can-teach-americans/

And What Have We Learned?

This trip, as with our previous travels, supplied us with memories of beautiful scenery and great food. It also taught us valuable lessons for future trips. Here are a few:

  • Traveling light means constantly searching for laundromats or paying hotels to do laundry for you. Cut yourself some slack and pack extra socks and undies. They don’t take up much room, and are probably what you’ll need to wash the most.
  • Paying $85 for your “Known Traveler Number” (KTN) from the Department of Homeland Security will only help you on flights originating in the US. In other countries you’ll still have to take off your shoes and pull out your laptops. We could only use the KTN for one flight on our itinerary. Unless you do a lot of domestic travel, it’s not worth the money. At least the KTN is good for five years.
  • Avoid changing planes at the Vancouver Airport. The distances between arrival gates and customs are long, and can be overwhelming to the mobility-challenged. If you have a short turnaround time, you could miss your connecting flight.
  • It helps to have a plan B when things go awry. Our rental flat in Lyon had a non-functional refrigerator. Fortunately, we were able to transfer to the hotel where we stayed last year without losing any money.
  • Regardless of the country, having to go to an emergency room while on vacation sucks.
  • If you find a free parking space for your rental car in a European city, grab it and don’t move the car unless absolutely necessary.
  • Despite the cute shoes we saw in Lyon, the average French man has the same sense of style as an American software engineer, with two exceptions: They wear more stylish eyewear, and their hair is a bit more groomed. The current style among hipsters is close-cropped on the sides and back, and longer on the top. Consider this a reverse mullet, or early Justin Bieber. If said hipster is going bald, he shaves his head; however, he has a beard to compensate. The beard may be a few days’ worth of scruff, or a bushy specimen worthy of Santa Claus.

Once the jet lag wears off (eventually), I’ll have more to report.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2016/09/22/and-what-have-we-learned/

Bonjour, Riviera

The homestretch of the French pilgrimage was on the Riviera. On Wednesday we landed in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. The view from our room at the Hotel Deux Frères was stunning. We saw the crescent-shaped harbor with Monaco in the distance. We also saw a flotilla of megayachts moored in the harbor, poor souls. Dinner at the hotel was merveilleux! We started with crab-stuffed tomatoes, then moved on to rack of lamb.

After breakfast, we roamed around Roquebrune. The town is what Julian refers to as a target-rich environment. He took many photos of the buildings, views, and street life. We also took a short visit to the cemetery, which has family plots going back over 300 years. We struck up a conversation (in French) with the friendly groundskeeper at the cemetery when he noticed my bandaged hand.

Because this section of the Riviera is so close to Italy, there’s a lot of cross-pollination between the two countries. Many of the local names look and sound Italian. In addition, the predominant cuisine of local restaurants is Italian. We had pizza for lunch today, and Julian had penne all’Arabbiata for dinner tonight.

Our last stop was Villefranche-sur-Mer, just east of Nice. The traffic in town is what you’d expect for a tourist destination, as is the parking. I was ready to tell Julian to drive to the Nice airport and get us on the next flight home when I saw an open parking spot that would accommodate the Purple People-Eater. We mostly walked and took transit from points A to points B. The hotel is located right on the working harbor.

On Saturday we took the train to Nice, mostly to visit the Marc Chagall Museum. The centerpiece of the collection is a series of paintings he did based on Biblical scenes. Many of these paintings were recently restored. The colors were wonderfully vivid. The rest of Nice was a big-city tourist trap. There was one exception: The memorial to the victims of the Bastille Day attack. The pile of toys, stuffed animals, candles, and messages takes up half a block of a park.

Sunday we took a bus to Cap Ferrat. Details of the visit are in the previous post. Our final dinner in Villefranche was at a Vietnamese restaurant. Then it was back to the hotel to pack and try to get some sleep before driving to the Nice Airport.

 

 

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2016/09/21/bonjour-riviera/

Riviera Motor Sports

Everyone has heard about the Grand Prix of Monaco. However, there’s a more popular motor sport here on the French Riviera: Parking Derby.

We were told that there were plenty of parking spaces near our hotel in Viillefranche-sur-Mer. There were, but they were all occupied. Finally we found a space about three blocks away. That’s where the Purple People-Eater stayed during our visit. Our breakfast on the front porch of the hotel was enlivened by watching other vehicles hunting for parking.

There’s a delicate physics at work when one looks for a parking space. There is the eyeball test: Will the space accommodate my vehicle? Then the passenger gets out of the car and flags the driver into the space. This process may or may not be successful. If not, the passenger may have to flag the driver to back up down a one-way street. (Been there, done that.)

There’s a common hazard of the Parking Derby, the scratch and dent count. Many French cars show battle scars from losing the battle for a parking space, either by dinging another vehicle or a wall. When we were waiting for the bus today, we watched a long parade of cars go by with assorted scratches, dents, and dings. The French see these as badges of honor. Either that, or the collision deductible on their car insurance is huge.

The pinnacle of the Riviera Parking Derby is in Cap Ferrat. This is an exclusive peninsula between Villefranche-sur-Mer and Italy. Paul Allen and other gazillionaires have pieds-à-terre on this spit of land. It should be noted that these “footholds” have more square footage than your average grocery store in the suburbs of Sheboygan or Seattle. We thought about driving over there today, but thought better of it when we saw the vultures circling for parking near the Purple People-Eater. The main town of St.-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a rats’ nest of one-way streets with limited parking. The peasants jockey for paid parking spaces throughout the peninsula. (Maybe this is how the town supports itself.) Meanwhile, the gazillionaires have valet parking or hired help. If they want a pizza, they can get it delivered–from Naples.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2016/09/18/riviera-motor-sports/

If Heaven isn’t in Provence…

I’m not going. This is the most amazing scenery. The combination of the hills, sea, sky, and vegetation is unlike anywhere else I’ve been. Throw in the history of the region and the cuisine, and you have the whole package.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2016/09/15/if-heaven-isnt-in-provence/

Gorgeous Gorges

We spent three nights in the Gorges du Verdon. This is France’s equivalent of the Grand Canyon. The Verdon River doesn’t look like much now, but in its heyday it carried large amounts of water from receding glaciers; hence the canyons.

A section of the Gorges du Verdon.

A section of the Gorges du Verdon.

Although the area is popular with other Europeans, we didn’t meet any other Americans there. I have two conjectures:

  • Rick Steves hasn’t done a TV show about the area yet. He does mention it in his book on Provence and the Riviera.
  • The gorges are not easy to access. The nearest airport is probably in Nice. Mass transit is unavailable. The main road, 952, is very narrow with lots of hairpin turns. It’s not for the faint of heart or sphincter function. The Purple People-Eater barely made it through when we met large (for Europe) RV’s. The shoulder of the road is non-existent in spots. One oversteer and you could wind up as vulture food in the gorge. (Is the resurgence of the vulture hereabouts due to motor vehicle, bike, and hiking accidents? Who knows?)

Our home for the duration was L’Auberge du Point Sublime, a hotel/restaurant near the tiny town of Rougon. There is a Point Sublime, and it lives up to the hype. It’s an easy 10-minute walk from the hotel. L’Auberge serves killer dinners made with local sheep and goat products, produce, and honey. I was still pretty ill our first night here, so all I had was the soupe au pistou for dinner. The room was rustic, but comfortable.

Overlooking the town of Rougon.

Overlooking the town of Rougon.

Because I wasn’t up for hiking the gorges, we visited two larger towns in the area. We did laundry in Castellane one day. This town is a major jumping-off point for rafters, climbers, and the like. The amenities also scream the demographic – lots of pizza places and sporting goods stores. We had lunch here at a Vietnamese restaurant run by a Dutch couple. The next day we visited Moustiers-Saint-Marie. This was the first town on the trip where we encountered tour buses. As it happened, the day we checked out, our hotel was swamped catering picnic lunches for a German-speaking tour group.

A view of Moustiers-Ste.-Marie.

A view of Moustiers-Ste.-Marie.

Both Castellane and Moustiers have hilltop Medieval churches. Many of the tourists took the steep trails up and back.

After this interlude in the hinterlands, the final leg of the trip goes for the glitz on the Riviera.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2016/09/14/gorgeous-gorges/

Lessons Learned from Being an ER Patient in Two Countries

Family, friends, and I have been patients in emergency rooms (ER’s) many times. I work in Quality and Patient Safety in a large hospital, and my office overlooks the ER parking lot. My recent experience in a French ER for a dislocated finger has allowed me to reflect on how all ER’s can treat patients better – and the patients’ responsibilities to optimize their treatment. Granted, France has single-payer and the US has a mixture of government insurance/private insurance/self-pay, but these issues cut across cultures and payment modalities.

  • An ER is an ER, regardless of location. Folks are in bad shape. There may be hysterical family members, biohazards, and the occasional police officer. There is bureaucracy to deal with, including the “billfold biopsy” for proof of insurance. People who’ve had heart attacks, gunshot wounds, or strokes get first priority for care (as they should); the rest wait for a break in the action to be seen. It could take hours. The waiting room has all the charm of a Department of Motor Vehicles office–with less comfortable chairs.
  • Language barriers are frustrating for both provider and patient. Even with a translator present, the nurse or doctor taking the history may not get the full picture. Culture may also play a role in the loss in translation. Patients may not get a description of their condition or how to take care of themselves after discharge. I can speak/understand French, but I did not get more than a prescription and an order for a follow-up X-ray in five days. I heard no mention of how long I need to keep my finger taped up until I called a physician friend in Seattle.
  • Hand hygiene (and hygiene on the whole) may be spotty. In my experience, the nurses are most likely to wash/gel in and out of a room, interns and residents less so, and senior physicians are least likely. In the French ER waiting room, a child spilled some soda on the floor. This could have been a hazardous situation for anyone. If hospital staff saw the spill, they didn’t seem to be concerned about it. Fortunately, my partner got some paper towels from the restroom and cleaned up the mess himself.
  • Identifying who’s who can be difficult. In the French hospital, I had to squint at the nametag stickers to see who was a nurse or intern. The senior ER physician wore no identification, just a SAMU (Service d’Aide Médicale Urgente, which is easily translated once you know the acronym) T-shirt and cargo pants. Nobody wore ID badges, as is common in US hospitals. And nobody entered my exam room and identified him/herself.

What can be done to improve the patient experience in ER’s and allow staff to give the best possible care?

  • These units should only be used for emergencies. For the flu or simple urinary tract infection (UTI), a free-standing urgent care clinic in the US will treat minor conditions without a long wait – and at lower cost. When I had an adverse reaction to the high doses of ibuprofen and naproxen I was taking for the finger, I went to a pharmacy in Aix-en-Provence and asked the pharmacist what to take. (Note: Most French pharmacies, like Costco’s in the US, are closed on Sundays.)
  • Cleanliness is essential to prevent the spread of hospital-acquired infections. The Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services penalize hospitals that have high levels of hospital acquired pneumonia and catheter-related bloodstream or UTI’s. Gelling or washing one’s hands when entering and exiting a room is just the beginning. Computer keyboards are notorious pathogen-catchers. Providers should gel after typing in the patient’s history and before examining him or her.
  • As a provider gels in when entering an exam room for the first time, he/she should identify him/herself to the patient. The provider should double-check the patient’s identity, utilizing date of birth.
  • If a translator is needed, one should be provided. Family members often get pressed into this service, which can be awkward – especially if the family member is a minor and the ER visit is for a touchy reason. Most hospitals in the US have onsite or video translation services.
  • Patients need to tell the nurse and physician everything they take: Prescription and over-the-counter medications, recreational drugs, dietary supplements, alcohol, and tobacco. They should also fess up about any sensitive topics, such as travel to areas with current infectious disease outbreaks (e.g., Zika).
  • No patient should go home from the ER (or hospital) without a complete explanation of the condition and treatment. Referrals should be made for follow-up visits before the patient leaves, especially for conditions such as diabetes and heart failure. Providers should not rely on the honor system or a patient’s iffy memory to assure continuity of care.

Regardless of location, the ER is a place best avoided unless there is a real health issue. It can be difficult to achieve optimal care and outcomes in this environment without effort by both patients and providers.

 

 

 

 

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2016/09/12/lessons-learned-from-being-an-er-patient-in-two-countries/

Other Sights and Sounds from St. Rémy

The injury to my hand, coupled with a bad reaction to the ibuprofen and naproxen I took to manage the pain, did a number on the last two days in St. Rémy-De-Provence. However, we were able to do some interesting things.
Friday we walked to the Roman ruins of Glanum, about a mile from our hotel. It was a very warm day. Neither of us thought to fill up our water bottles, let alone bring them. As a result, Julian was one sorry specimen. Fortunately, the souvenir shop at the ruins had a vending machine full of Evians. Dinner that night, once we tidied up, was at a restaurant called L’Estagnol. Word from these wise guys: There is nothing better on a hot day than a cold bowl of gazpacho made with dead-ripe tomatoes. It also helped that the dessert we chose was a cold peach soup with a little scoop of vanilla ice cream. The main course was braised pork ribs – excellent, but my stomach couldn’t handle much of it.

At any time of the day or night in Provence, you will hear the clack of metal balls. This is pétanque, or boules. Les Provençaux take this game very seriously. Most villages have flat, sandy areas called boulodromes for this game. Even non-designated boulodromes are pressed into service, as long as the surface is flat.

One event we did not witness is what Julian refers to as “the taunting of the bulls.” This is more like American rodeo clowns than traditional bullfights. Young men with more testosterone than common sense get into a ring with a bull and attempt to grab a ribbon off the bull’s horn. The bull wants no part of this and chases the man. With luck, the guy jumps over a barrier or onto bales of straw to escape. If luck is not with the man, bad things can happen. Unlike traditional Spanish bullfighting, the bull lives to be taunted another day. Some of these bulls develop national reputations. As far as the bull-taunters go, one hopes they have day jobs.

Poster for bull-taunting.

Poster for bull-taunting.

St. Rémy has an organ festival every year at the St. Martin church. They invite renowned musicians from all over France to play the 170-year-old pipe organ. Some of the concerts include choirs and orchestras. The organist at our concert, Olivier Trachier, was from a familiar church – St. Gervais in Paris. He may have been the organist playing and practicing the two times we visited Paris. Since the organ is directly opposite the altar and the organist is hidden from view, the church set up a screen and projected live video of Trachier at the keyboard. Periodically the camera would cut to his feet if the piece of music required him to use those keys. The concert consisted of three centuries of French organ music. Organ pieces are usually short. It may have been designed to give the poor souls who worked the bellows to provide the air to the pipes a chance to rest. (Most of the European organs predate electricity by a couple hundred years.)

From St. Rémy it was on to Les Gorges du Verdon. St. Rémy is positively cosmopolitan compared to the little towns here. More to come.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2016/09/12/other-sights-and-sounds-from-st-remy/

Fish Spa

No, this is not a spa for your guppies. These fish earn their keep by chowing down on feet immersed in their tanks.

Nineteen Euros for 15 minutes? Isn't there a koi pond in a nearby backyard?

Nineteen Euros for 15 minutes? Isn’t there a koi pond in a nearby backyard?

I guess the other part of the business is to keep the rest of the customer occupied.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2016/09/09/fish-spa/

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