Locks of Love, Seattle Style

A peculiar ritual came to an end last month in Paris. For years, couples would attach padlocks to the Pont des Arts and other bridges over the Seine as symbols of their lasting love. Tradition had it that the keys were thrown in the river. As with many rituals, things got out of hand. The weight of the locks bent the wire mesh on the bridges to the point that sections began to fall into the river. So the city decided to remove the wire mesh on the bridges and replace it with plexiglass. Julian took these photos when we were in Paris in May, just before the lock removal took place.

Lock-encrusted bridge in Paris, with Notre Dame in the background.

Lock-encrusted bridge in Paris, with Notre Dame in the background.

Close up of padlocks. So how did Romeo and Juliet get to Paris?

Close up of padlocks. So how did Romeo and Juliet get to Paris?

Locks on the lock, Canal St. Martin in northeast Paris.

Locks on the lock, Canal St. Martin in northeast Paris.

Fear not, young lovers. Seattle appears to have a place for you to declare your love with a padlock. Our friend Gayle noticed these padlocks on a fence overlooking the mouth of the Duwamish River. Since the Duwamish was once one of the most polluted rivers in the northwest, your keys could disintegrate in the sediment. How’s that for permanence?

Locks of love along the Duwamish. Photo courtesy of Gayle Goldman.

Locks of love along the Duwamish. Hey, it’s a start. Photo courtesy of Gayle Goldman.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/07/02/locks-of-love-seattle-style/

In Defense of Himalayan Blackberries

Himalayan blackberries are invasive in the Seattle area. The canes seem to sprout out of nowhere and grow almost as fast as kudzu in the Carolinas. Not only do they grow fast, they bear mass quantities of fruit from July to October. Birds consume the berries and spread the seeds in their waste, which produce more canes. Homeowners spend lots of time and money trying to rid their yards of these invaders. However, I have devised a simple way to prevent further invasion of Himalayan blackberries—pick them and eat them.

First of the season.

First of the season.

One of my favorite summer pastimes when I lived in upstate New York was picking wild blackberries and raspberries on my grandfather’s farm. I’d have to do a good bit of walking and endure lots of scratches to get enough berries for a cobbler or pie. My part-Labrador retriever, Lucy, would accompany me. She’d graze the lower canes while I worked the upper ones. Occasionally my mother’s basset hound, Clementine, would join us. She had to settle for the few berries that grew at her level, regardless of their stage of ripeness. One summer my 20-pound cat, Shamus, brought up the rear of this bizarre parade. He was more interested in keeping the dogs behaved than eating berries. (Shamus took no guff from dogs—he once rode a German shepherd out of the yard.)

When we lived in Seattle, the most accessible Himalayan blackberry patch was at the end of our street. I could pick a quart of berries there in less than 30 minutes without breaking a sweat. The Burke-Gilman and Sammamish River Trails also have large areas of berry canes. I suspect the berry-pickers hereabouts are more avian than human. This is a shame, because blackberries are tasty and have high nutritional value. According to my trusty 17th edition of Bowes and Church’s Food Values of Portions Commonly Used (Lippincott, 1998), ½ cup of blackberries contains more dietary fiber than the same amount of other fresh fruits and a good amount of potassium. High dietary intakes of potassium may reduce the risk of high blood pressure. In addition, the chemicals that give blackberries their color may be helpful against the development of cancer. Suddenly these invaders don’t look so evil after all.

When you pick Himalayan blackberries, remember that there is no gain without pain. Those canes are armed with thorns. It’s a good idea to wear jeans and a long-sleeved shirt to pick enough for pie. Go for the berries that are solid black and come away from the stem easily. If you have to work to pick a berry, it’s not ripe yet. Blackberries and raspberries are very perishable. This is why you pay $3 for a mere half pint of them at the grocery store in July. Plan on using or freezing your harvest within two days of picking. Don’t store them in a deep bowl, as the bottom berries may get crushed. Wash them just before you use them to reduce the risk of mold.

So what can be done with Himalayan blackberries besides eating them directly off the canes? You can serve them in a fruit salad or over ice cream. You can make ice cream or sorbet with them. Throw a few of them into a fruit smoothie. We are fond of them in cobblers and crisps. Any general cookbook will have a recipe for one of these. It’s best to find a recipe that doesn’t cook the berries before baking, as this can cause them to fall apart. They can also be made into jellies and preserves. Some of these recipes require forcing the juice through a fine sieve or food mill to remove the seeds. You can also freeze them for cobblers in January. Spread the unwashed berries in a single layer on a baking sheet, freeze them solid, and then package them in zipper bags for long-term storage.

Another fine way of dealing with a bumper crop of Himalayan blackberries is to share them with neighbors and friends. Just look upon it as another way to halt the invasion. Before long, you may have human competition at the local berry patch.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/07/02/in-defense-of-himalayan-blackberries/

Salade Compostée

Last night I tried a duck gizzard salad that Julian had found on the web. It’s a rather involved recipe for a weeknight. First you blanch julienned carrots and marinate them in a red wine vinegar brine. Then you sauté some leeks. Following that, you make a vinaigrette with pears. You wash some greens and get them ready to toss with all of the ingredients. So far, so good. Then you fry the gizzards. Even using less olive oil than the recipe called for in a non-stick pan, the gizzards were greasy beyond belief. I could only eat a couple. The rest of the salad was fine. I added some cooked frozen edamame to the vegetables for lunch today, and Julian used the rest of the components in a potato salad tonight. As for the leftover duck gizzards–straight to the compost bin.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/24/salade-compostee/

The Circle of Compost–and Cash

Seattle and several suburbs in the area offer yard/food waste collection along with trash and recycling. One pays for this service. The yard and food waste go to a composting company, which sells the former leaves and lettuce back to residents for a profit. Such a deal!

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/21/the-circle-of-compost-and-cash/

Saturday in Bellevue

Bellevue is the second largest city in King County after Seattle. The downtown area reminds us of Dallas, only with better weather. Conspicuous consumption is rampant. We had to return an item to the Sur La Table store, in a shopping center called the Bravern. A Ferrari and a Bentley were parked at the entrance. There’s a Neiman Marcus in the complex, completing the comparison to Dallas. We had a late lunch at Wild Ginger, one of our favorite Pan-Asian restaurants in the area. Their fragrant duck buns are to die for.
After our visit to the Bravern, we went over to Bellevue Square, which is only slightly less upscale. It has Nordstrom and a Tesla store. We noticed that the Sanrio shop, home of Hello Kitty, in the mall had closed. This signified three things to me: There is a god; She is merciful; and She also hates Hello Kitty.
The neighborhoods of Bellevue to the east of I-405 (aka the longest parking lot in western Washington) are a bit more diverse in their offerings. A branch of the southern fast food chain Chick-Fil-A just opened off Northeast 8th Street. The parking lot was packed when we went by. I’ll save my neighbors the trouble of standing on line: It’s just a fried chicken sandwich topped with pickles. You may now return to your normal teriyaki stand.
Our final destination was the Bellevue branch of Uwajimaya, a small chain of Japanese-Asian grocery stores. Their specialty is Asian groceries that most stores hereabouts don’t carry. You can find any variety of soy sauce, tofu, or rice there. Unfortunately, you can also find natto there. The most exotic things we bought at Uwajimaya today were duck gizzards for dirty rice and Japanese sweet potatoes.The latter have an interesting texture when baked, almost buttery before you top them with anything. I’ll probably serve them with lamb chops tomorrow.

Our usual haunts in Bellevue are not in the downtown area, with the exception of Facing East. This is a Taiwanese restaurant just north of Bellevue Square. A friend who was born in Taiwan has declared it the real deal. As it happens, his mother and the owner of Facing East were neighbors when they were younger. There’s always a line out the door. Their signature dish is pork belly buns topped with an interesting cucumber pickle. I’d take these over a fried chicken sandwich any day,

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/20/saturday-in-bellevue/

Seattle Summer Solstice

Happy Summer Solstice! In Seattle, that means one thing: The Fremont Solstice Fair and Parade.
Fremont is the polka-dotted sheep of Seattle neighborhoods and proud of it. Where else will you find a larger-than-life-sized statue of Vladimir Lenin, which gets strung with lights every Christmas? There’s also the Fremont Troll, clutching a VW Beetle underneath a bridge. The Solstice Parade is an extension of this eccentricity. There are several rules for the Parade:

All floats are human-powered.
No written signs.
No corporate sponsorships (Lenin would not approve).
Put some spare change in the baskets that are passed around during the parade, as the collection benefits non-profit organizations in the area.

The “highlight” of the Fremont Solstice Parade is the armada of over 1,000 naked bicyclists. They’re body-painted and otherwise decorated, so it’s not meant to be a lewd display. In the early years of the parade, Seattle Police would arrest the naked bicyclists. Currently there’s a truce (there aren’t enough police vans to arrest them all), as long as the bicyclists behave themselves.  The photo below was taken two years ago, when our friend Bruce lived near Ground Zero of the parade route.

Bicyclists at the Fremont Solstice Parade, no doubt replenishing their vitamin D stores.

Bicyclists at the Fremont Solstice Parade, replenishing their vitamin D stores after a long winter.

The guy in the vest was the self-appointed traffic cop for the parade.

In addition to the Parade, the Fremont Solstice Fair includes an art car show, concerts, and assorted arts and crafts vendors. In a city that seems to have a neighborhood street fair every weekend, Fremont’s is undoubtedly the biggest and one of the best organized. Not bad for a neighborhood that features statues of Lenin and a troll.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/20/seattle-summer-solstice/

Final Stop

The last two days of our trip were spent in Lyon, the third largest city in France. Unlike the bastides, the architecture of Lyon dates to the Renaissance and later. Unlike in Paris, more modern skyscrapers have encroached closer to the center city. However, it’s a vary charming town. We stayed in a hotel on the Presqu’île, between the Rhône and Saône rivers.

Two large churches of differing vintages dominate the skyline of Lyon. The Cathedral of St. Jean is close to the riverfront. On the hill above St. Jean is the Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourvière, which dates from the late 1800’s. The latter is extremely ornate, with gold-leaf mosaics decorating the sanctuary. Some of the mosaics depict more recent Catholic Church history, including Joan of Arc and the declaration by Pope Pius I of the Immaculate Conception of Mary. The view of the city from the hill is stunning. When we first visited Lyon in 1991,we climbed the hill via The Way of the Cross trail. This year we took pity on our knees and took the funicular. The markers that once marked each point on The Way of the Cross have since been located to the plaza in front of the church. Another new site since our last visit is a statue of Pope St. John Paul II, which commemorates his visit to the Basilica in 1996.

St. Jean is in the foreground, Notre Dame de Fourviere is atop the hill.

St. Jean is in the foreground, Notre Dame de Fourviere is atop the hill.

 

 

Lyon is generally recognized as the gastronomic capital of France. On Sunday morning we wandered through a riverfront market. The quality and variety of produce were astounding. Julian pulled me aside at one point and said, “I’m depressed. Tomorrow we go home to Safeway.”

Produce vendor at the Lyon riverfront market.

Produce vendor at the Lyon riverfront market.

That night we had dinner at a restaurant owned by Paul Bocuse, Le Sud (The South). Bocuse is one main reason that Lyon has its culinary reputation. Unfortunately, we were not enamored of Le Sud. The food was good, but not transcendent. We enjoyed meals in Paris, St. Cirq-Lapopie, and Cordes more and paid less for the privileges.

Next time we go to Lyon we’ll spend more than two days there. Perhaps we’ll rent an apartment and cook with goodies from the market. In the interim, we’ll have to make do with Pike Place Market and the fruit stand around the corner.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/19/final-stop/

To the Bastides, Parte Deux

Bastide #5 was Cordes-Sur-Ciel. As with the other towns we visited, tourism is the main industry. The city was much more touristy than the other bastides. However, our accommodations here were probably the best of those outside Paris. We stayed at a delightful bed and breakfast called Le Secret du Chat. Alain and Marie are excellent hosts. Not only are they good cooks, they have a garden (the secret) that overlooks the valley. Our breakfast companions were a lively mix of French, Irish, Swiss, and Polish people. We also had a very pleasant home-cooked dinner with Alain and Marie. Unfortunately, we missed the Cordes Cookbook Festival, which was scheduled for the week after we left. (Zut alors!)

Our B&B in Cordes-sur-Ciel.

Our B&B in Cordes-sur-Ciel.

Our final town on this stretch of the trip was Albi. It doesn’t qualify as a bastide, although there are some nearby. It’s famous for two landmarks, the Cathedral of Sainte-Cecile (St. Cecilia) and the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum. Sainte-Cecile is the largest brick cathedral in the world. Parts of it are under renovation, but the parts that have been renovated are stunning. The ceilings are painted with the saints, and the altar table is a marble and mosaic masterpiece. Toulouse-Lautrec was from Albi, and the museum holds a large collection of his works, from his childhood doodles inside a French-Latin dictionary to paintings to the posters for which he’s best known. Another landmark for us was the Marché Couvert, an assortment of bakeries, butchers, and fish shops.

If you want to visit the bastides for yourself, you will need a car. Most of these villages don’t have rail service. (The tourist choo-choo trains don’t count.) You also need a bit of daring (and a strong undercarriage on your car) to negotiate some of the roads leading to the bastides. Make hotel reservations well in advance of your trip, as accommodations are limited. Most of the bastides can be done in a day, so you can set up in Beynac (for example) and visit Domme, Roque-Gageac, and other bastides on the Dordogne from there. Cordes and Albi are near each other, so you can set up in either town. St. Cirq-Lapopie is pretty isolated from the others, and we would argue that it deserves two days.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/19/to-the-bastides-parte-deux/

To The Bastides!

We visited several hilltop villages in southern France called bastides. The peasants could retreat behind their walls when under attack during the Hundred Years’ War. The walls have crumbled, but the towns have survived.

Accessing these towns is not easy for modern tourists, even though nobody’s pouring boiling oil on you from the ramparts. The roads up to them are narrow and don’t accommodate small cars well, let alone tour buses. Our map app sent us on wild routes through countryside and tiny villages. The destinations, fortunately, are well worth the hassles.

The first bastide we visited was Domme (pronounced dumb). This is an adorable town that overlooks the Dordogne. Our hotel, L’Esplanade, was near the church and town square. The specialties of the region are foie gras, truffles, strawberries, and walnuts. We had dinner at the hotel, which was superb. Julian had the foie gras, while I had shrimp. The walnut bread served on the side was wonderful, a pain de campagne (country bread) rather than a heavy non-yeasted loaf. We had breakfast at a little pâtisserie in town that served interesting jams with the croissants and breads–rhubarb and peach-walnut.

The Hotel Esplanade in Domme.

The Hotel Esplanade in Domme.

We stopped at two other bastides on the way to our next hotel in St Cirq-Lapopie. The towns of La Roque-Gageac and Beynac are right on the Dordogne, but the chateaus and ramparts are on cliffs above the river. The views were spectacular. Parts of Beynac are excavated into the cliffs, and those areas are currently being reinforced using more modern construction techniques.

Beynac.

Beynac.

St. Cirq-Lapopie is another clifftop town with stellar views and amazing medieval architecture. Its patron saint is the youngest person canonized in the early Christian era–at age three years, according to the church literature. To get to this town, the map app directed us over a one-lane bridge that barely accommodated our rental Peugeot. (Needless to say, the tour buses take an alternate route up the hill.) The town suddenly got very crowded about 10 am with French, German, and British tourists. There are only 18 hotel rooms and a few rental apartments in St. Cirq-Lapopie, so the bus tourists have to stay elsewhere. As a result, the town gets quiet around 6 pm. On our last night we had the terrace of a restaurant to ourselves and had a splendid meal. Julian found this the most interesting village to photograph.

St. Cirq-Lapopie

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/17/to-the-bastides/

Man at Work

This juxtaposition was too good to resist.

Julian, hard at work in Lyon,

Julian, hard at work in Lyon,

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/17/man-at-work/

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