Jun 12

Copper River Salmon Gemisch

The arrival of Copper River Salmon is one of those big deal events for some in Seattle. The flesh of this salmon is higher in fat than fish from other origins, particularly farm-raised. The fish have to lay on extra fat to survive the long trip to their hatching place to spawn. More fat equals more flavor. In mid-May the first fish get flown on a special Alaska Airlines flight. (Too bad they’re dead already and can’t consume peanuts on the way down.) The price is exorbitant at first, but eventually it falls to affordable. QFC, a local chain, had it on sale this week for $9.99 per pound. I picked up a slab on the way home from work for dinner.

Our usual recipe is to plank the salmon with garlic, onion, brown sugar, orange rind, and basil. Unfortunately, I forgot to pick up an orange along with the fish. Plan B was to plank it and serve it with a mustard vinaigrette over salad. This is an adaptation of a recipe I found in a book called Savory Flavors with Wood (Nature’s Cuisine, 2004). The text of the book was written by an acquaintance of mine, Judith Dern. The “secret ingredient” in the vinaigrette was suggested by our French professor. It adds just a wee bit of umami action to the dressing.

Salmon with Mustard Vinaigrette

1/4 cup olive oil

3 tbsp. white wine vinegar

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

Secret ingredient: a few drops Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce (I used Red Boat)

1 lb. salmon filet

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 tbsp. chopped fresh basil

3 cups kale

cucumber and red bell pepper

Oil a cedar or alder plank big enough to hold the piece of fish. Preheat grill. Whisk the oil, vinegar, mustard, fish sauce, salt, and pepper together until smooth. Place the fish on the plank and drizzle with some of the vinaigrette. Roast fish on plank on medium-high (400°) until fish just starts to flake when tested with fork. While the salmon’s on the grill, tear the kale into bite-size pieces and divide between two salad plates. Add cucumber, red bell pepper, or other vegetables as desired. Serve salmon atop the kale salad. Drizzle some of the remaining vinaigrette over the salad. Serves 2-3.

We had some leftovers that Julian turned into salmon salad the next day. He chopped in some red bell pepper, moistened it with a little extra vinaigrette, and threw in some capers. It wasn’t the tidiest lunch, but it certainly was tasty.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/12/copper-river-salmon-gemisch/

Jun 11

Glutenous Maximus

It’s hard to think of a culture more gluten-centered than the French. Baguettes are a daily tradition, as are pastries, croissants, cakes, biscuits (cookies in the US), and tarts. Then you have flour-thickened sauces such as bêchamel and velouté. So it was a bit of a surprise to find a selection of gluten-free fad diet books in a bookstore in Albi. Most of them were translations of American books such as Wheat Belly. From my observations, the fad hasn’t caught on amongst most French people.

About the time I first wrote this post, Julian got an email from our friend whose older daughter has celiac disease. They will be visiting friends in Paris later in the summer, and they’re obviously anxious about gluten-free dining. Yogurt and fruit are probably the best bet for breakfast. Gluten-free options do exist, but it may take more hunting.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/11/glutenous-maximus/

Jun 11

Double-Take Time

Sometimes you drive past an establishment and you have to think twice about what they’re selling…

I just can't make this stuff up.

I just can’t make this stuff up.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/11/double-take-time/

Jun 05

Quenching One’s Thirst

The weather in Amsterdam and Paris was moderate, with highs in the 60’s. So it was a bit of a shock when the temperature upon our arrival in St. Cirq-Lapopie was 86° (30°C). The climate in southern France, even in the high country, is dictated by the warm Mediterranean rather than the icy Atlantic. We spent a lot of time in the afternoons attempting to keep hydrated.
My philosophy of fluids to quench thirst is simple: Water is best, followed by something with a bitter edge. For example, beer is better than wine to deal with thirst. Grapefruit juice does a better job than other juices. Iced tea that is unsweetened and unflavored is better than sweet tea or soda. Gin and tonics were tailor-made to deal with thirst in the tropics.
As persnickety as the French are about their food and wine, you’d think they’d be the same way about soft drinks. You would be dead wrong. We ordered “limonade” in Albi. Instead of lemon juice squeezed into water with a little sugar, we got something more like Sprite.

Artisan, schmartisan. Just squeeze me a lime, already!

Artisan, schmartisan. Just squeeze me a lime, already!

In numerous places we asked whether the iced tea was sweetened or flavored. The answer was universal: sweetened peach-flavored tea, usually from Nestlé. Julian got some, and it was dreadful. Iced tea should be black, unsweetened, and unadulterated with any tutti-frutti flavors. Anything else and you may as well be drinking soda.
If you really want to slack your thirst, stick to water or slightly bitter beverages. Not only will you feel better, you may save some calories if the choice is between water and soda.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/05/quenching-ones-thirst/

Jun 04

Moving Around When Moving’s an Issue

France has some policies that are more progressive than the United States, but there is one area that lags far behind–accommodating persons with mobility issues. Elevators in many buildings are non-existent or won’t fit a standard wheelchair. Smaller Métro stations in Paris don’t have elevators or escalators. In most French restaurants, “les toilettes” are down a narrow spiral staircase below the dining area. I watched numerous elderly folks from a tour bus make their ways painfully toward the restrooms in one restaurant in Beynac. And this was a modern building, not one of the Medieval retrofits in town. In fairness to our hosts, we have seen handicapped parking spaces around Paris and in the villages.
My advice to travelers with mobility or balance issues is to call in advance and make sure you can access facilities. If you’re staying at a hotel, the concierge should be able to steer you towards places that can accommodate your needs. This can save a lot of hassles.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/04/moving-around-when-movings-an-issue/

Jun 04

Cornfields in France

futurefoiegrasCorn is not a major ingredient in French cuisine except in the Basque country. So how come we saw corn fields in the Dordogne Valley? Two words: Foie gras. Corn is a key component of overfeeding ducks and geese to produce the fatty liver that’s such a delicacy in the region. Julian had some duck foie gras the night we spent in Domme. I’ll admit it was good. Would I eat it on a regular basis? No, courtesy of its calorie content and cost.

There is a human analog to foie gras that may also involve corn. Excessive consumption of high-fructose corn syrup with overindulgence of calories may contribute to non-alcoholic fatty liver disease in people. The fructose can be converted to fat, which can build up in the liver because it can’t be exported to the blood fast enough. So in essence, you may be developing your own foie gras. Something to consider next time you stop for a large soda.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/04/cornfields-in-france/

Jun 04

Pictorial Observations

It’s a good thing we came here during the age of the digital camera. Julian would have gone broke with all the pictures he’s taken on this trip if he still used film. Photoshop has also saved him from over- or underexposed shots. He’ll be spending many hours after we get home tweaking his photos for public consumption. Even though my camera of choice is my phone, I’ve also profited from the digital era. It boggles my mind that I can have so many pictures on a device that fits in my purse.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/04/pictorial-observations/

Jun 04

Rest Stops à la Français

Your standard American rest area on an interstate toll road is little more than a bad vending machine. Forty years ago rest areas were run by Howard Johnson in the northeast, Stuckey’s in the south, and other chains elsewhere. If you drive the New Jersey Turnpike these days, you might find a Roy Rogers, Subway, or other fast-food franchise. Haute cuisine? Forget about it!
On the other hand, French Autoroutes (national highways) have real restaurants at rest areas. These aires are spread about 15-20 miles apart. At some you can get real French baguettes or pastries from a chain called Paul. On our way out of Paris, we had a cafeteria meal at an aire. Julian had braised rabbit with vegetables, while I had a vegetable platter and soup. The price was quite reasonable, unlike the price-gouging that occurs on US interstates. You can stretch your legs, have a civilized meal without exiting the Autoroute, and resume driving. In addition, the gas stations at aires have reasonable prices. Think about that next time you’re hungry and low on gas on the NY State Thruway or Massachusetts Turnpike.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/04/rest-stops-a-la-francais/

May 31

Off to the Hinterlands

Today was our last day in Paris. Unfortunately, it rained. We wandered around the Jardin de Luxembourg and the neighborhood where we rented an apartment four years ago. In the afternoon we attended a short organ concert at St. Eustache church, which boasts the largest pipe organ in Europe. We had dinner at Alsace aux Halles. Les Halles used to be the main produce and meat wholesale market in Paris until the late 1960’s. The traditional after-work restaurant offering was onion soup. This is my way of paying respect to the neighborhood’s past:

Bon appétit!

Bon appétit!

Tomorrow we leave for southern France. We start in the Dordogne River valley and make our way east to Lyon. I’m not sure what our Wi-Fi connections will be like, so it may be a few days before my next post. In the meantime, enjoy!

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/05/31/off-to-the-hinterlands/

May 31

For Members of the “Cult of Cute Shoes”

You know who you are. Your idea of Nirvana is the semi-annual shoe sale at Nordstrom. We found just the thing for you near Place St. Michel today:

Sure beats a hollow chocolate bunny.

Sure beats a hollow chocolate bunny.

The size was not listed.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/05/31/for-members-of-the-cult-of-cute-shoes/

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