The weather in Amsterdam and Paris was moderate, with highs in the 60’s. So it was a bit of a shock when the temperature upon our arrival in St. Cirq-Lapopie was 86° (30°C). The climate in southern France, even in the high country, is dictated by the warm Mediterranean rather than the icy Atlantic. We spent a lot of time in the afternoons attempting to keep hydrated.
My philosophy of fluids to quench thirst is simple: Water is best, followed by something with a bitter edge. For example, beer is better than wine to deal with thirst. Grapefruit juice does a better job than other juices. Iced tea that is unsweetened and unflavored is better than sweet tea or soda. Gin and tonics were tailor-made to deal with thirst in the tropics.
As persnickety as the French are about their food and wine, you’d think they’d be the same way about soft drinks. You would be dead wrong. We ordered “limonade” in Albi. Instead of lemon juice squeezed into water with a little sugar, we got something more like Sprite.
Artisan, schmartisan. Just squeeze me a lime, already!
In numerous places we asked whether the iced tea was sweetened or flavored. The answer was universal: sweetened peach-flavored tea, usually from Nestlé. Julian got some, and it was dreadful. Iced tea should be black, unsweetened, and unadulterated with any tutti-frutti flavors. Anything else and you may as well be drinking soda.
If you really want to slack your thirst, stick to water or slightly bitter beverages. Not only will you feel better, you may save some calories if the choice is between water and soda.
Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/05/quenching-ones-thirst/
France has some policies that are more progressive than the United States, but there is one area that lags far behind–accommodating persons with mobility issues. Elevators in many buildings are non-existent or won’t fit a standard wheelchair. Smaller Métro stations in Paris don’t have elevators or escalators. In most French restaurants, “les toilettes” are down a narrow spiral staircase below the dining area. I watched numerous elderly folks from a tour bus make their ways painfully toward the restrooms in one restaurant in Beynac. And this was a modern building, not one of the Medieval retrofits in town. In fairness to our hosts, we have seen handicapped parking spaces around Paris and in the villages.
My advice to travelers with mobility or balance issues is to call in advance and make sure you can access facilities. If you’re staying at a hotel, the concierge should be able to steer you towards places that can accommodate your needs. This can save a lot of hassles.
Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/04/moving-around-when-movings-an-issue/
Corn is not a major ingredient in French cuisine except in the Basque country. So how come we saw corn fields in the Dordogne Valley? Two words: Foie gras. Corn is a key component of overfeeding ducks and geese to produce the fatty liver that’s such a delicacy in the region. Julian had some duck foie gras the night we spent in Domme. I’ll admit it was good. Would I eat it on a regular basis? No, courtesy of its calorie content and cost.
There is a human analog to foie gras that may also involve corn. Excessive consumption of high-fructose corn syrup with overindulgence of calories may contribute to non-alcoholic fatty liver disease in people. The fructose can be converted to fat, which can build up in the liver because it can’t be exported to the blood fast enough. So in essence, you may be developing your own foie gras. Something to consider next time you stop for a large soda.
Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/04/cornfields-in-france/
It’s a good thing we came here during the age of the digital camera. Julian would have gone broke with all the pictures he’s taken on this trip if he still used film. Photoshop has also saved him from over- or underexposed shots. He’ll be spending many hours after we get home tweaking his photos for public consumption. Even though my camera of choice is my phone, I’ve also profited from the digital era. It boggles my mind that I can have so many pictures on a device that fits in my purse.
Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/04/pictorial-observations/
Your standard American rest area on an interstate toll road is little more than a bad vending machine. Forty years ago rest areas were run by Howard Johnson in the northeast, Stuckey’s in the south, and other chains elsewhere. If you drive the New Jersey Turnpike these days, you might find a Roy Rogers, Subway, or other fast-food franchise. Haute cuisine? Forget about it!
On the other hand, French Autoroutes (national highways) have real restaurants at rest areas. These aires are spread about 15-20 miles apart. At some you can get real French baguettes or pastries from a chain called Paul. On our way out of Paris, we had a cafeteria meal at an aire. Julian had braised rabbit with vegetables, while I had a vegetable platter and soup. The price was quite reasonable, unlike the price-gouging that occurs on US interstates. You can stretch your legs, have a civilized meal without exiting the Autoroute, and resume driving. In addition, the gas stations at aires have reasonable prices. Think about that next time you’re hungry and low on gas on the NY State Thruway or Massachusetts Turnpike.
Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/06/04/rest-stops-a-la-francais/
Today was our last day in Paris. Unfortunately, it rained. We wandered around the Jardin de Luxembourg and the neighborhood where we rented an apartment four years ago. In the afternoon we attended a short organ concert at St. Eustache church, which boasts the largest pipe organ in Europe. We had dinner at Alsace aux Halles. Les Halles used to be the main produce and meat wholesale market in Paris until the late 1960’s. The traditional after-work restaurant offering was onion soup. This is my way of paying respect to the neighborhood’s past:
Bon appétit!
Tomorrow we leave for southern France. We start in the Dordogne River valley and make our way east to Lyon. I’m not sure what our Wi-Fi connections will be like, so it may be a few days before my next post. In the meantime, enjoy!
Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/05/31/off-to-the-hinterlands/
You know who you are. Your idea of Nirvana is the semi-annual shoe sale at Nordstrom. We found just the thing for you near Place St. Michel today:
Sure beats a hollow chocolate bunny.
The size was not listed.
Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/05/31/for-members-of-the-cult-of-cute-shoes/
Friends, we have been to the Promised Land. It’s the Galeries Lafayette Gourmet Shop, which has FOUR FLOORS of food, beverages, and cooking tools. The Harrods Food Halls in London and the KDV Food Halls in Berlin are pale pretenders. Even our beloved Pike Place Market in Seattle doesn’t have the density or breadth of offerings. Need a whole leg of Spanish jamon (ham)? Only 650 Euros (€). Petrossian caviar? Pas de problème. How about some 1899 Château d’Yquem Sauternes? They have it (and I saw the bottles), but I didn’t dare check the price. Julian did–a mere 40,000 €. Such a deal!
Then we have some more familiar offerings:
I can’t possibly make this up! Marshmallow Fluff and Pop-Tarts as gourmet food.
I think the store should have a spray cheese vs. brie smackdown.
Julian’s cousin Kitty was fascinated by the concept of spray cheese. Kitty, you now know where you can find it.
The street level of the store has the mother of all food courts. Not only can you find the aforementioned caviar and ham, but you can get dim sum, noodles, Mediterranean food, sandwiches, and desserts guaranteed to change your life. We bought two macarons from Pierre Hervé, and had tea/coffee at Prêt à Manger.
It’s probably a good thing that Galeries Lafayette is closed on Sunday; otherwise, we’d be there another day and decide not to come home.
Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/05/31/foodie-heaven-on-earth/
France has the best cheeses in the world. Its haute cuisine is based on butter and cream. So why do they sell milk in shelf-stable containers? This dairy farmer’s granddaughter wants to know.
Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/05/31/question-du-jour/
Four years ago we were walking around Rue Francois Miron and happened upon an organ concert in St. Gervais Church.
The church of St. Gervais, courtesy of Julian.
Interior of St. Gervais, courtesy of Julian.
While we were listening to the concert, I noticed that some of the stained-glass windows looked way too modern for such an old church.
Windows of St. Gervais. It’s a bit hard to see, but the left and middle windows are definitely more modern than the one on the right.
A trip to Google revealed the answer: The church was bombed by the Germans during World War I–on Good Friday, no less. Over 80 people were killed in the bombing.
Today we were back in the neighborhood and stopped inside the church. Unlike the other churches we visited this week, there were very few visitors inside. The organist was practicing at the time. I found the memorial to the victims of the bombing, which we hadn’t seen four years ago. It was a respite from the rampant throngs of tourists.
Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/05/30/a-touchstone-for-me-at-least-in-paris/
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