The Life-Changing One True Cobbler®

There is nothing I like better than a good peach in season. Under normal conditions, eating it out of hand (often over the kitchen sink) is sufficient for me. Occasionally you need to embellish perfection. This is where cobblers come into play.

Many years ago, my department in North Carolina hosted a going-away party for a colleague who was moving to Montana. The dessert was a peach cobbler that had appeared in Southern Living magazine that month. (For the uninitiated: Southern Living and the Charleston Receipts cookbook are the main arbiters of foodie good taste in the Carolinas.) The host tried to double the recipe and put it into a baking dish that was too small for the amount of peaches and batter. This resulted in a minor oven fire; however, what was left in the dish was very tasty. I remembered that I had that issue of the magazine at home, and the rest is history. If I opt to try a different recipe, the SO will ask, “Why have you deviated from the path of The One True Cobbler?”

The beauties of this recipe are many. Folks who grew up in the 1970’s will think it’s similar to the old “impossible pies” on the back of Bisquick boxes. You don’t have to mess with making a pastry crust or biscuit dough as with other cobblers. The recipe is easily halved for two-person households such as ours. I often add more peaches than the recipe requires. Although it’s primarily peach, you can gild the lily by sprinkling blackberries, raspberries, or blueberries on top just before it goes into the oven. You can make it with all whole-wheat flour with no problem. I have yet to try a gluten-free (GF) version of the recipe, but it shouldn’t be hard to adapt. I wouldn’t use a GF flour mix that has a large amount of bean flour in it lest it produce an off-taste in the final product.

The One True Cobbler® (accept no substitutes)

The recipe is adapted from one that was published in Southern Living in July 1997 as Easy Peach Cobbler.

1/2 cup unsalted butter (NOT margarine), melted
1 cup flour
2 cups sugar
1 tbsp. baking powder
pinch salt
1 cup milk (skim is fine)
4 cups peaches, peeled and sliced
1 tbsp. lemon juice
nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, or crystallized ginger

Preheat oven to 375°F. Pour melted butter into 13″ x 9″ x 2″ baking pan. (If you halve the recipe, use an 11″ x 7″ or a 9″ square pan.) I usually melt the butter in the pan in the oven while it’s preheating. Watch it to make sure it doesn’t burn.

In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, 1 cup sugar, baking powder, and salt. Stir in milk, mixing until just combined. Pour into pan on top of the melted butter. DO NOT STIR.

Stir together peach slices, 1 cup sugar, and lemon juice in a medium saucepan; heat at medium on stove burner until mixture just comes to a boil. Spoon peach slices and juice evenly over the batter in the pan. Again, DO NOT STIR. Sprinkle top with seasoning of choice and/or berries, as desired.

Bake cobbler for 40-45 minutes until top is golden brown. Serve warm or cold alone or with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream. The full recipe usually serves 8-10 in our hands.

Note:

A variation of this recipe appears in Molly O’Neill’s One Big Table as Dori Sanders’s Cobbler. In this recipe, the raw peaches (no need to peel) are mixed with 1 cup brown sugar and left to stand for 10 minutes before spooning on top of the batter. Lazy bum that I am, the no-peel, no-cook variation has merits. The peach essence is not diminished by the pre-cooking. In addition, the brown sugar gives it a bit more caramelization. We like this variation even better than the original, so it is referred to as the One Truer Cobbler®.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/04/30/the-life-changing-one-true-cobbler/

Wine Appreciation – The Four Step Program

Cindy is unable to edit a post tonight (for reasons that will soon become obvious), so your intrepid site admin is standing in. This episode presents a basic tutorial on cultivating one’s palate to the pleasures of the noble grape, in its fermented form. When Cindy was an undergraduate, she completed the wines course in the Cornell University School of Hotel Administration. Furthermore, her family hails from rural Upstate New York, a region famous for producing women with low morals and hollow legs. So she clearly qualifies as a World Authority on alcoholic beverages.

Step One: Study the Label

 

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If you have an interest in oenophilia (and live in a state where it is legal), you will learn to read a wine label like a book. With experience you will learn how to recognize the most important features indicative of a quality product: how much wine is in the bottle, what percentage of it is delicious alcohol, the price, etc. Don’t be discouraged if the text is in a foreign language. For example. the term “appellation” simply refers to certain regions of France. Beverages of similar or superior merit are made by many small producers in the US Appalachians.

Look for: words like jumbo, economy, costco, fortified

Avoid: words like windex, prestone, isopropyl, welch’s

Step Two: Use Your Eyes

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The appearance of a fine wine can enhance your enjoyment. Hold the bottle up to the light, and see how much wine remains inside (especially if it was previously opened). A full bottle will provide much more enjoyment. Note the color. Does it look like wine? A small amount of sediment at the bottom of the bottle is nothing to worry about. But if the sediment is over one half inch thick, or green and fuzzy, you might need to shake up the bottle to evenly distribute it.

Look for: red, pink, clear, or pale yellow

Avoid: cigarette butts, insects (although if it’s a small worm, this might be Tequila, in which case, go for it)

Step Three: Use Your Nose

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You may be surprised to discover that wines can smell good, and that this is an important part of the wine experience. Experts tell us to look for fragrances that they describe as floral, fruity, vinegary, or skunky. So stick your nose right in there. No odor at all?  This might be a clue that you need to open the bottle. If you don’t have a corkscrew, a power drill works fine.

Look for: pleasant aromas that remind you of ripe fruit, spring flowers, or the last time that you got blasted

Avoid: if encountering reactions like stinging eyes, shortness of breath, facial lesions

Step Four: Use Your Belly

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Finally, we are at the point where we can get down to business. Professional tasters and critics will swish the wine around the mouth, while simultaneously sucking air to create turbulence. This allows them to discern nuances like oak, chalk, leather, musk, and acid – obvious signs that the wine was improperly made or stored. Sometimes these pros will go through an entire day’s worth of tastings, spitting out every sample. There’s a lot of bad wine out there. If you are worried about these off flavors, it may be safer to choose a wine from one of the biggest name-brand producers. Try to swallow quickly.

Look for: wines with natural flavor additives, like cherry, chocolate, peppermint, corn syrup

Avoid: wines that are past their “drink by” date (some stores will leave them on the shelf for years)

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/04/30/wine-appreciation-the-four-step-program/

A Bicycle Biomechanics Question

Why is is that so many men ride bikes bow-legged? It’s not particularly aerodynamic. And they’re not all newbies–I’ve seen plenty of experienced bikers ride bow-legged. Are their bikes not adjusted to the length of their legs? Any input?

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/04/20/a-bicycle-biomechanics-question/

My Drug of Choice

After last week’s post on the marketing synergy of a local pot purveyor, I’m sure that random visitors to my little blog will be disappointed to learn that my drug of choice is Camellia sinensis, otherwise known as tea. I’m probably one of the few strictly tea-drinkers in the coffee-crazed Seattle metro area.

Over the years I’ve become rather particular about the kind of tea I drink: Black, strong, caffeinated, and unadulterated. My mother will ask when I steep tea for longer than two minutes, “Are you going to drink that tea anytime soon?” Julian will observe jokingly that the mug is disintegrating because the tea is so strong. (This from a man who drinks coffee so strong it will grow hair on the palms of one’s hands. More on his caffeine proclivities later.) I rarely drink green tea, although I will occasionally drink oolong. I don’t care for sweetened drinks, especially tea. I usually buy Typhoo, Yorkshire Gold, or similar British teas at the Perennial Tea Room in Pike Place Market.

As doctrinaire as I am with hot tea, I am even more opinionated about iced tea. I lived in North Carolina for several years, where if you ask for iced tea, you’ll get it so sweet that your dentist will be able to send all of his or her kids to Harvard on your bills. I felt as if I was fighting a losing battle with my students and colleagues when they’d have the sweet swill at department potlucks. Here in Seattle, some restaurants serve only tutti-frutti flavored iced teas. “It’s only slightly sweet,” the waitstaff will croon in an attempt to make the sale. Mango and passionfruit are best in a fruit bowl, not in my glass.

And when it comes to herbal tea: FEH! I’ll drink mint tea under certain conditions, but most herbal teas just taste like boiled lawnmower clippings.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/04/15/my-drug-of-choice/

Seder Day Night with the Goys (the Annual Mixed-Marriage Seder)

Our Friday Night Follies group consists of several mixed-faith (or lack thereof) couples. We’ve been known to light Chanukkah candles on a Christmas-themed tablecloth. Passover is the one holiday where we (almost) do things by the Book. A few examples of how we tailor the holiday:

Several years ago we had both red and white horseradish for the table. This led to the yin-yang presentation below:

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This year friends who have been wandering in the wilderness of Silicon Valley were up for the Seder (and were house-hunting so they can return to the Promised Land of Seattle). This is the family for whom gluten is a serious health issue. [See my earlier post, Feeding Between the Lines.] They purchased gluten-free gefilte fish that the daughter with celiac disease likes. (She may be the only 10-year-old in recorded history known to like gefilte fish.) They also bought gluten-free matzoh and what they thought was meal for matzoh balls, although the latter turned out to be farfel (coarse matzoh crumbs). The mom made the batter with farfel and decided that it was not suitable for matzoh balls. She started from scratch again by grinding up the farfel in the blender. I took the failed batter and made the pancakes seen below:

IMG_1125 After eating a couple of them, I’m convinced that any matzoh balls made from them would be serious sinkers. Here are the matzoh balls made with the ground-up gluten-free farfel:

IMG_1130 I opted not to take a picture of them at the end of the evening, as the leftovers disintegrated into a gooey mass. (Teachable moment: Most gluten-free flours are too low in protein to sustain the shape of products for very long. In this case, the main flours in the matzoh meal were tapioca and potato starch.)

As with most Seders, wine made an appearance. One friend brought some excellent 12-year-old wine from her late husband’s collection. This was not Kosher for Passover, however. The matriarch of our group wanted Manischewitz beyond what was used for the haroseth, so there was a bottle of what we called “goofy grape” on the table. We also had kosher grape juice for the kids and our non-drinking friends.

Passover is also a time of the Seder dessert smackdown. My coconut macaroons are a regular feature. I usually serve a fresh fruit salad alongside them, because the rest of the meal can be extremely heavy. Lest you think the plague of locusts only existed before Moses led the children of Israel out of Egypt, this is what the dessert table looked like after the guests descended. The macaroons and fruit are in the right foreground.

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It is traditional to set a place for the prophet Elijah. This year Elijah was our friend who was doing his nurse practitioner rotation at a clinic south of Seattle and couldn’t make it in time for the (condensed) Haggadah reading.

A good time was had by all, as always.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/04/05/sseder-day-night-with-the-goys-the-annual-mixed-marriage-seder/

Marketing Synergy in Action!

I live in Washington, where recreational marijuana sales are legal. In the last 6 months a pot shop opened in the Central District of Seattle, near my work place. The site of the shop was considered jinxed. A previous owner was murdered in a robbery. A subsequent business was torched. The pot shop did not open without controversy, since there is a church two doors down.
This property has become one-stop shopping for the neighborhood. Employees in a converted cargo container sell the weed. The larger building sells accessories–bongs, papers, and such. In recent weeks I’ve noticed a variety of food trucks located in the parking lot. A glorified sidewalk cart sold mini-doughnuts. There was also a cupcake/pastry truck. I saw a vegan food truck there once, but it has yet to make a second appearance. (Seattle can out-Portlandia Portland sometimes.) Be forewarned: On Friday afternoons the traffic near the shop can be pretty hairy, as folks purchase all of their weekend provisions.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/04/04/marketing-synergy-in-action/

24/7 Access to Work is Overrated

My cell phone stays on its charger in our home office at night and on most weekends. I choose not to have remote access for my office computer, despite my occasionally onerous commutes to and from work. I had a pager in my previous job, which stayed turned off in my office for years. Am I a Luddite? No, I just don’t believe in 24/7 access–and you shouldn’t, either.
Three simple reasons to separate work and home:

  • Your sanity. All work and no play burns your brain crispier than bacon in a diner. Even the most workaholic among us needs time to do laundry, grocery shop, or sleep. Keeping work at work forces my focus and improves my time management skills.
  • Your family. Your kids, spouse, parents, and other relatives deserve your undivided attention. We were having dinner at a local deli the other night and saw a family at a nearby table who were deep in their phones and iPads. Were they catching up on work? How about conversation with one’s tablemates?
  • Your community. Although Washington is a 100% vote-by-mail state, there are other options for getting involved in the life of your community. It can be via your religious home, your child’s school, or local politics. As an example, I’ve recently been involved in onebothell.org to save a nearby golf course as open space and keep it from being developed.

I admit I don’t maintain this discipline consistently. I take the cell phone on weekend bike rides in case I have an accident or plan to meet up with friends. I access my work email on the weekends. Sometimes I do edit documents at home. However, if I have some heavy work to do or a deadline coming up, I will either work late or go into the office on the weekend. That way I don’t need to be on call throughout the weekend, and can enjoy myself.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/03/29/247-access-to-work-is-overrated/

Waldorf School Whipped Cream

A friend of ours used to teach at a Waldorf School, where use of technology is avoided in early education. (Her specialty was teaching finger-knitting to squirmy 6-year-olds.) Last night at the Friday Night Follies, she demonstrated how to make Waldorf School Whipped Cream:

Pour heavy cream into a clean, wide-mouth, screw-top jar. Shake the daylights out of the jar for 20 seconds, then pass it to another person. Repeat shaking and passing along just until you can’t hear any sloshing in the jar. Don’t go too far, unless you want to make Waldorf School Butter.

Not only were the results good for such a low-tech activity, but it was good exercise for the participants.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/03/28/waldorf-school-whipped-cream/

How to Read a Recipe

Back in the day when computer software actually came with printed documentation, information technology geeks had a key piece of advice for those who called with basic questions: Read the *^%#ing Manual (RTFM). In our house, we’ve adapted it to RTFR, where recipe replaces manual in the acronym. Here are the common sins of omission or commission in recipe non-reading:

  •  Ingredients
  • Preparation
  • Timing

How do you avoid the pitfalls? Simple:

  •  Read. The. Recipe. Several times. Well before you get ready to cook, in case you need to pick up key ingredients at the grocery store. (I often get calls to buy something on the way home from work.)
  •  Get everything cut up and prepped prior to turning on the stove. This is what’s called the mise en place, or put in place. Chop up the onions and garlic, open up the cans of broth or coconut milk and measure what you need. If you only have one cutting board and knife, cut up your vegetables (including any side dish or salad ingredients) before the meat or other protein to avoid cross-contamination that could result in food poisoning.
  •  Under- or overestimating timing on recipes is rampant. In general, tofu and seafood cook faster than fish.  Chicken parts cook faster than whole, halved, or quartered chicken. It takes time to get beef or lamb from the shoulder, brisket, breast, or hip fork-tender in stews or pot roasts. When in doubt on whether your meat is done, use a thermometer. Most cookbooks have a chart to tell you when a particular meat is done to your liking or be safe.

Now that I’ve given my thoughts on how to write and read recipes, look for an upcoming post on how to bend the rules.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/03/22/how-to-read-a-recipe/

How to Write a Recipe that Readers Can Replicate

I’m often disappointed by recipes I find in newer cookbooks and online. It’s as if nobody proofread or tested them. Sometimes ingredients in the list don’t appear in the recipe instructions, or proportions seem to be off. For those of us in science, a key consideration in publishing  our research is to describe methods in sufficient detail that someone can replicate what we did. In the interest of advancing quality control, this is my take on recipe-writing.

To paraphrase Albert Einstein, the divine is in the details. Spell it all out. Never assume that your readers are experts in the kitchen. What kind of onions? How much in terms of measurement? How long does it need to cook? What should the texture or color of the final product be? If you include some less common ingredients, where can your reader find them?

As an example, here is a recipe I copied verbatim from a notebook of recipes that my maternal grandmother compiled. Grandma was a home economics teacher before she got married, so she kept many of her methods and proportions in her brain. She died just before my fifth birthday, so I never had a chance to learn from her.

Swiss Steak (this looks more like pot roast to me, but I’ll give Grandma the benefit of the doubt)

Round steak and onions.

Fry onions until brown, pull well to one side of pan and sear the steak in browned grease. (Roll steak if desired.) When steak is well browned on both sides, fill pan 2/3 full of water, cover, and let simmer on back of stove for two or three hours, watching to see if more water is needed. Remove steak and make a thickened gravy, which may be strained if desired.

Grandma needed to fill in some blanks for the benefit of her descendents. For example:

  •  How much round steak and onions?
  • How should the onions be cut?
  • What “grease” should be used to fry the onions?
  • No seasoning? Not even salt and pepper? (Grandpa would have liked some salt…)
  • How do you thicken it? Boil the daylights out of it?

Here is my attempt at rewriting her recipe. I took a few liberties to drag it into the 21st Century.

Pot Roast

2 pounds top or bottom round steak, in one piece

2 large yellow onions, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into half-moon slices (about 2 cups)

1 tablespoon olive oil, vegetable oil, or bacon grease (what Grandma might have used)

1 sprig flat leaf (or Italian) parsley, 1 branch fresh thyme, and 1 bay leaf, tied together with kitchen string

kosher salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste

2 cups low-sodium beef or vegetable broth

water as needed

1 tablespoon flour, stirred into 2 tablespoons water to form a slurry (optional)

Season the steak on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat oil or bacon grease in a large heavy skillet that will hold the beef snugly over medium-low heat. Add onions to pan and cook slowly until they begin to turn golden brown, between 15 and 25 minutes. Don’t burn the onions. Stir occasionally to brown them evenly. Remove onions from pan with a slotted spoon and turn heat to medium high. Put round steak in pan and cook for about 5 minutes on each side until well-browned. Return browned onions to pan and add broth and herb bundle. Make sure the liquid is about 2/3 up the side of the pan. Bring to boil; turn heat down to low and simmer for about 2 hours until meat is fork-tender. Add more water as needed. At the end of cooking, remove the beef and onions, if desired. Thicken the broth in the pan with the flour and water slurry, stirring constantly, until liquid reaches a boil. Let boil 3-5 minutes to cook away the raw flour taste, then serve as a gravy with the beef and onions. Serves 6-8.

Permanent link to this article: http://ediblethoughts.com/2015/03/22/how-to-write-a-recipe-that-readers-can-replicate/

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