When one has nearly 600 cookbooks, you can go for a while without cracking the spine of a few. Others are used regularly. Then there are the ones that I refer to by the author’s first name. Some of them depend on the context. Here are a few cookbooks to which I refer that way:
Irma. Obviously the Joy of Cooking. For the newest edition, Julian referred to it as “Irma’s descendent.”
Mai. This is Mai Pham, author of Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table.
Anya. Anya Von Bremzen has published several cookbooks. Our go-to Singapore chili crab recipe comes from her cookbook, Terrific Pacific.
Steven. Steven Raichlen, author of The Barbecue Bible.
Julia. Need you ask? Child, of course.
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