Two Side Trips

On the last leg of our journey, we had two side trips – one intentional, one accidental. Julian noted that our route from San Sebastian to Domme passed near Lourdes. We were game to see it, so off we went. For those unfamiliar with the story, this article can bring you up to speed. Miracle cures have been purported to occur after drinking or bathing in the spring water in the grotto where Bernadette saw the Virgin Mary. A basilica was built adjacent to the grotto.

The grounds and basilica are impressive. Most of the art in the basilica is devoted to Mary. The front lawn allows for social distancing, a good thing with hundreds of pilgrims descending on the site on any given day. I opted not to visit the grotto, although Julian and our traveling companion Bruce did. Instead, I watched as an energetic young monk trained a group of docents on what they can see during their shifts. At one point, he belly-flopped onto the grass to demonstrate that pilgrims may prostrate themselves before the altar.

After a late lunch, we resumed our travel. Shortly after we got on the main motorway, our rental car started acting up and the check engine light came on. (Maybe we should have topped off the radiator with water from Lourdes?) We pulled onto a shoulder marked for disabled vehicles. Within five minutes, a service vehicle stopped to offer assistance. He helped us call a tow truck and the rental car company, as our automotive French skills are sadly lacking. We were towed to a Peugeot dealership in nearby Tarbès. The rental car company showed up soon thereafter with a new rental vehicle. As a result, we didn’t get to Domme until well after 10:30. At least we got there.

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